Charming towns and starry nights

Hope we didn’t scare anyone (ie our mums) with the last post – it’s not all terror and danger. We’ve paddled to some of the most charming American towns one can imagine; the kind with men on ladders fixing red painted shutters, women unraveling holiday garlands for storefront decorations, lots of smiles and hellos, and church rummage sales with absolutely amazing sweaters and earrings, etc for about fifty cents each.

We’ve also paddled into the evening the last few nights, realizing that we’re twice as efficient paddling when the relentless south wind has died down for the day. Although slightly eerie, there’s something very, very elegant about the canoe gliding through calm, dark waters under brilliantly starry skies. The fledgling crescent moon provides just enough light to illuminate the river.

This morning we awoke on an island in Illinois to the wonderful sound of birdsongs. It feels as though we’re heading south!

We’ve stopper for lunch in Bellevue, Iowa, in a small diner with a very charming 16 year old waitress, all day breakfast, and a view of mainstreet. We’re making plans for Davenport in a few days – hopefully a shower and a break!